The Island of Enchantment Adventure - Puerto Rico
“In Puerto Rico we dance to everything.“ - Bad Bunny
“Livin’ La Vida Loca.” - Ricky Martin
The Story -
Ginger and I were fortunate enough to travel to exotic Puerto Rico recently to celebrate her and her fiftieth birthday. If you love nature and yearn for outdoor adventures like we do, the Island of Enchantment should be on your short list of places to visit. It truly has everything an outdoor enthusiast desires - The only rainforest in the US national park system, sandy beaches, abundant waterfalls, spelunking, hiking, kayaking, body rafting, world class scuba / snorkeling and much, much more. Below are some of my favorite pictures from our trip along with a brief description and some more information about each. I hope they will perhaps inspire you to visit the tropical island the indigenous Taino belovedly call Borinquén, meaning “Land of the Brave”.
La Ruta del Lechón - The Pork Highway -
After a four-hour flight and a small rental car snafu, The Pork Highway was our first stop after arriving in Puerto Rico. It once was a hidden gem among locals, but thanks to the late Anthony Bourdain, it’s become a must stop for foodies checking out the island. Pigs are roasted on spits directly in front of you, before being broken down behind the counter with machetes. Heaping piles of the pork are served alongside side dishes like mashed yuca, peas, crispy pork and rice, and fried plantains. Not the most colorful or healthy, but hey, there are no calories on vacation right? The Pork Highway on Route 184 is an amazing must stop introduction to the food, people and culture of PR!
La Parguera Bioluminescent Bay -
La Parguera is a bioluminescent bay found in the southern town of Lajas. The bay's glowing effect is made possible by the billions of invisible micro-organisms called dinoflagellates, which emit a short burst of light when the water is agitated. After a twenty minute boat ride just before midnight, Ginger and I were able to jump in and swim under the moon and stars, with our every move generating a magical light show. A truly unique and unforgettable experience!
La Playa Tamarindo -
Tamarindo Beach was recently ranked as the best beach in Puerto Rico and deservedly so in my opinion. Since the beach is part of a nature reserve, Playa Tamarindo remains naturally landscaped the way God intended. We spent several hours snorkeling in the shallow water permeated with copious amounts of marine life - coral, sea urchins and vibrant fish. And even though I am only a novice snorkeler, I was able to experience all the beauty of the marine world with ease.
La Salinas - The Pink Salt Flats -
Las Salinas, or the Pink Salt Flats, in Cabo Rojo in northwest Puerto Rico was truly remarkable and is one of the most underappreciated and unknown natural treasures on the island. The salt flats get their pink color from the abundant microscopic brine shrimp, which also help with the production of the salt. Interestingly, the Taino Indians began extracting salt from the flats as early as 700 AD.
Diamante del Norte - Arecibo -
We stayed at an exquisite oceanfront airbnb in Arecibo for two nights, mostly as a staging point for our nearby excursions. A blog about Puerto Rico would be incomplete without a mention of the devastation caused by Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria, with both slamming PR only two weeks apart in September 2017. Arecibo and Puerto Rico have worked hard to recover, yet signs of the destruction from the hurricanes are still visible without having to look too terribly hard. Our fabulous beachside airbnb was surrounded by properties yet to be restored on what was once and hopefully will again soon be a thriving community.
Cueva del Indio - Arecibo
Near Arecibo, Cueva del Indio is an impressive seaside cave system that is surrounded by dramatic steep cliffs that stand strong against the massive, angry and deafening waves of Atlantic Ocean crashing into and over them. The cave gets its name from the various pre-Columbus indigenous petroglyphs that are found in the limestone walls of the cave. Definitely not recommended for those who are skittish and/or afraid of heights, with the soaring cliffs dropping off suddenly to the rocky surf and crashing waves below. Perhaps the highlight of our trip for me.
Las Cavernas del Rio Camuy -
The Rio Camuy Cave is the third largest underground cave system in the world, with the massive main section of the cavern ceiling rising over 10 stories high. The sheer size and magnitude of the cave is astonishing, with some tunnels spanning 170 feet high and over 200 feet wide. Spectacular stalagmites and stalactites are abundant, carved by the waters of the approximately 45 million years-old Camuy River running underneath the caverns. The cave stays mostly at a comfortable sixty five degrees year round, except for one section where you can feel the heat from the thousands of sleeping bats high above you.
Waterfalls -
Followers of my blog know that while I love both hikes with views and those with water, I prefer hikes with water. Is it possible to have both at the same time? Like a marriage proposal, it’s best to know the answer before asking the question. And in Puerto Rico with many towering waterfalls, the answer is 100% yes! Many of the waterfalls we visited had refreshing collection pools, allowing us to enjoy a few relaxing dips in the water while also admiring the falls above.
Old San Juan -
The walled city of Old San Juan, the second oldest town in America, (Flan de Queso prize if you know the oldest) is like traveling back in time. We walked the blue cobblestone streets (the stones were used in Spain’s wooden boats crossing the Atlantic for balance) lined with over 400 restored buildings from the 16th-century Spanish colonial period to Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or simply El Morro. El Morro is one of the largest fortifications built by the Spaniards in the Caribbean during the 16th century. Made up by six staggered levels, this fortress was designed to protect the city from attacks made by sea and it still has some of the original cannons facing the ocean. The views of the Atlantic from the top level are spectacular, just come prepared with comfortable walking shoes and sunscreen. Old San Juan will appeal to history buffs like me as well as to almost everyone else with the numerous eclectic stores, restaurants and shops. (FYI - Santa Domingo in the Dominican Republic is the oldest town in the Americas.)
Rio del Tanama -
Body Rafting? Sounds fun and maybe a little dangerous, so what is it? Equipped with only a helmet, a bathing suit, and a life jacket, our Tanama River adventure involved using only the rivers swift current to float down the winding rocky river through a thick forest and numerous caves. Imagine squatting in a river, doing your best yoga bridge pose for two hours while avoiding rocks along the way while admiring the beauty of the jungle high above you. Ginger was exceptionally good, floating with ease like a seasoned pro, maneuvering through the river quickly while not letting the rocks or several shallow areas deter her, unlike yours truly. The drive on the narrow road to the body rafting staging area was an adventure in itself, and the hike down to the river takes you through the jungle crossing over fields of coffee, bananas, plantains, orange plantations and more.
El Yunque National Forest -
El Yunque is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest Service, and its name is a reference to Yuke, what the indigenous Taíno people defined as "white lands." With an average rainfall of 120 inches a year, El Yunque has a very diverse ecosystem, hosting hundreds of unique plant and animal species, including the island’s famous coquí frog. Ginger and I spent two days hiking several awe-inspiring trails in the mostly deserted southern section of the rainforest. Our surroundings reminded me of the opening scenes of the first Raiders of the Lost Ark movie. Truly remarkable.
La Comida -
I described Puerto Rico’s love of pork above, yet there are so many other delectable foods in Puerto Rico. Mofongo, Arroz con Gandules, Tostones (not to be confused with tostada - ask G about that), Flan de Queso, Empanadillas, Pasteles, Momposteao, Ensalada de Carrucho, exotic fruits picked directly from the source and many more. We were intentional about trying as many different Puerto Rican foods and dishes as we could and were not disappointed. I might need to go on a diet now that I'm home, but it was worth every bite. (Ha, who am I kidding, it’s Thanksgiving soon. Like free drinks at a bar, the diet starts tomorrow - always tomorrow.)
Casa Flamboyant Bed and Breakfast -
Is there a heaven on earth? If so, I imagine it would be at Casa Flamboyant, a luxurious secluded mountaintop retreat in the heart of the El Yunque rainforest. Ginger and I stayed two nights in one of the only three rooms on the property with striking views of the surrounding tropical paradise. Our hosts Ricky and Florin, along with their dogs Obi and Mara, catered to our every need. Breakfast each morning included fresh picked fruit from their property along with other locally sourced ingredients. And after hiking to the two private waterfalls also on the property, we relaxed in the infinity pool just outside our room. At night, the natural sound machine of Coquí tree frogs and Puerto Rican Screech Owls serenaded us to sleep. Heavenly.
Flora -
Fauna -
The numerous and diverse plants and animals of Puerto Rico are truly remarkable, worthy of separate blog posts for each. Ginger and I were constantly in awe, stopping many times to admire, take photographs, and check our Seek app to learn more about all the amazing and beautiful flora and fauna we discovered while on the island. (Alex would not have been pleased with all of our stops.)
Wrap It Up -
Alex recently advised me that his English teacher did not recommend a closing paragraph in his essays. What? So I’m not going to to include a wrap up, closing by only saying, “Ve a Puerto Rico te va a encantar!” (Go to Puerto Rico, you will love it!)